advertisement
Categories

Fashion

Coast to clothes: Fashion labels that tailor to an island lifestyle

1.MirèioFranceMargaux Varnavidou has spent more than a decade working for luxury groups such as LVMH and living in busy cities including New York and Paris. Her husband, Paul-Henri Bayart, meanwhile, pursued a career in finance. Both were operating at the same lightning-fast pace but, in 2020, they pressed pause. During the coronavirus lockdowns, they began spending more time in the Mediterranean, between Bayart’s native Provence and Cyprus, wher...

Interview: Nuria Cruelles, Loewe perfumer

Over the past decade, Loewe has transformed from a dormant Spanish heritage brand into one of the world’s most relevant luxury houses. This is largely thanks to its creative director, Jonathan Anderson, and the many ways in which he has revitalised the house’s fashion business, with mesmerising runway shows in Paris, a growing range of accessories and a commitment to artisanal production. Now, customers are equally excited about discovering ...

Five-star retail experiences from across the Mediterranean

Sunny travels offer you the chance to explore new, more carefree versions of yourself – and your wardrobe. You might pick up a punchier fragrance, swap your classic watch for a bright-yellow waterproof Swatch chronograph or experiment with new patterns. But when you return home, these purchases often feel out of place. So you store them away, together with your memories of the trip.If that scenario feels familiar, it’s probably because, until rec...

Hul le Kes proves that small-city manufacturing can be the right choice

Historically, the city of Arnhem was known as an industrial centre and a focal point for Dutch-German grain trading. But more recently the city, in the east of the Netherlands, has blossomed into a creative hub – a development triggered by the opening of the ArtEZ academy in the early 2000s, which offers courses in fashion design, dance and fine art, alongside a host of other creative disciplines. A number of homegrown labels and boutiques, such ...

Scandinavian minimalism with an inviting generosity

In an industry as fast-paced as fashion, the value of long-term collaboration can easily be forgotten. But some creative relationships deserve to be more than just flings. Stockholm-based luxury fashion label Toteme has called on design and architecture studio Halleroed for 10 years to help create a visual identity for its offices and shops. What started as a commission to design the label’s first office in New York has flourished into a global p...

The French guide to summer style

Camille Romagnani wearssleeveless vest byBabaà, shirt byPatine, trousers byStudio Nicholson, ring byAgnès BMiles le Gras wearsshirt bySunnei, trousers byThe Frankie Shop, bag byRimowaZélikha Dinga wearsjumper byMiu Miu, shirt and skirt byRier, socks byFalke, shoes byMagasin Vivant!, glassesmodel’s ownTimothé Echelard wearsjacket byRier, shirt byCharvet, jeans, socks and shoes byGucciCésar Debargue wearsjacket byAndersen-Andersen, shirt byPaul Smi...

Sharp dressing at The Decorum

FashionBangkok, ThailandJanuary 9, 20243 MIN 21 SECSharp dressing at The DecorumThe Bangkok-based retailer and fashion label has been recognised as the top emerging fashion outpost in Monocle’s inaugural Retail Awards. We meet co-founder and creative director Sirapol Ridhiprasart to talk about dressing The Decorum way. The brand’s silhouettes blend Thai style with classic British footwear, Japanese tailoring and more.Editor Helena KardováSubscrib...

The Agenda: How the Olympics could jeopardise the French capital’s ‘bouquinistes’

Retail: ParisFinal pagesJulia Webster Ayusoon the Olympian threat looming over the iconic booksellers on the banks of the Seine.“There’s the Louvre, the Passerelle des Arts, the Vert-Galant garden.” Jérôme Callais is pointing to the different monuments he can see from his workplace, a book stall on Paris’s Quai de Conti. “When I finish in the evening, I walk across the Pont Neuf and watch the sunset.” For the past 400 years, booksellers such as C...

What is the essence of modern luxury today?

The ExpertAlexandra CarlStylist and creative consultantWhile auction houses have long valued the importance of paintings, cars and watches, they’ve only turned their eye to fashion in recent years. “Collecting fashion is a relatively recent phenomenon,” says the Danish, London-based stylist and creative consultant Alexandra Carl. “But that is changing. Now, when you look at catalogues from Christie’s and Sotheby’s, clothes are almost on the same ...

Bruno Pavlovsky on Chanel’s enduring success recipe: ‘It’s brand first’

Ever since Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel designed one of her first garments in 1916 – a belted silk-jersey blouse that looks as current today as it did then – her fashion house has been shaping our understanding of modern luxury and leading the way for the rest of the industry. Its pioneering role has rarely been contested over the past century but in today’s rapidly expanding, globalised fashion ecosystem, the power of the Chanel brand has reached new...

The summer essentials that will elevate your wardrobe this season

Hunza GUKLondon-based swimwear label Hunza G has found success thanks to its elegant cuts and signature crinkle fabric, which is stretchy enough to fit any body shape and to see you through a lifetime of summer dips. Now the brand is expanding beyond its popular swimsuits for the first time with the Weekend capsule collection, a line of laid-back shirt-and-shorts sets. They come in blue striped cotton, as well as black-and-white linen and work bo...

Brussels + Antwerp: The Monocle Travel Guide

FashionAntwerpOctober 23, 20193 MIN 11 SECBrussels + Antwerp: The Monocle Travel GuideBelgium had no fashion history until six young designers put their country at the centre of that world in the late 1980s. To celebrate our latest travel guide, we travel to Antwerp to see how the fashion scene has matured.Available now at The Monocle Shop.Narrator Venetia RaineySubscribeEmailiTunesYouTube

Monocle Christmas Market 2019

RetailDecember 13, 20192 MIN 9 SECMonocle Christmas Market 2019Tyler Brûlé and his merry team got festive last weekend with the annual Monocle Christmas Market at Midori House in London. Our favourite retailers brought their yuletide treats and sharedGlühweinwith subscribers and guests. And, of course, Santa was on hand too.Editor Agathe TrouetteSubscribeEmailiTunesYouTube

How Catalan creatives are drawing on Spain’s design history to create new collections

Barcelona is a city built on the riches of its manufacturing heritage. For much of the 19th century, Catalonia was known as “the factory of Spain” and the wealth generated by its booming textiles industry helped fund the development of Barcelona’s cultural scene and its impressive architectural landmarks.The city might no longer be quite the industrial powerhouse that it once was, but it has retained a reputation as a hub for innovation and cultu...

Tailoring’s youthful refit

FashionAugust 24, 20212 MIN 7 SECTailoring’s youthful refitThey might not fit the archetype of the high-end tailor but a new generation of smart young outfitters are now at the cutting edge of bespoke menswear. We get the measure of four such craftsmen in London, Berlin, Hong Kong and Perugia.Editor Agathe TrouetteSubscribeEmailiTunesYouTube

Step into atelier Luca Avitabile, Naples’ bespoke shirtmaker

Calling on an expert cloth-cutter shouldn’t be reserved for special occasions or formal suiting. Skilled artisans around the world take commissions for everything from made-to-measure shirts to custom-made gloves, ties and footwear designed to last a lifetime. Booking an appointment with a local tailor or visiting a specialist atelier while on the road is a smart investment that will ensure that you feel good and look your best during professiona...

Workwear is back in the fashion fold – does the trend mark a shift in consumer behaviour?

Fashion trends come and go at lightning speed, but one is proving to have lasting effect on wardrobes. Workwear has gone from being associated with the working classes to being embraced by style communities and subcultures around the world, from skateboarders to British punks. It’s a category that has been a fixture on the sartorial landscape for quite some time but today it has gained newfound momentum in mainstream men’s and women’s fashion – h...

Jil Sander is bringing its modern, understated aesthetic to London

The house of Jil Sander operates in a world of its own, divorced from trends, the fashion industry’s rigorous schedules and expectations for seasonal renewal. Not that it ever really sought to be part of the collective. When founder Heidemarie Jiline Sander presented her first womenswear collection in 1973 in Hamburg, she wanted to address professional women like herself with pared-back, modernist designs: the smartest wool trousers, the most ele...

Zeus + Dione’s co-founders on reconnecting with Greek craft traditions

It shouldn’t come as a surprise that as you approach the Zeus + Dione eyewear laboratory in Kryoneri, a northern suburb of Athens, you spot goats, wild boar and the odd cow wandering around the pine-tree- dotted meadows. This is a brand born out of a desire to reconnect with craft traditions and nature, as well as forge partnerships with the best local manufacturers.Twelve years since its inception, the business co-founded by Dimitra Kolotoura an...

Why traditional fashion thrives in Germany

FashionBavariaSeptember 5, 20234 MIN 1 SECWhy traditional fashion thrives in GermanyLederhosen and dirndls aren’t just donned for Oktoberfest in southern Germany; tracht has been experiencing a renaissance in recent years with many wearing these traditional clothes every day. Monocle Films travels across the region to meet the makers and retailers who are successfully keeping this traditional heritage alive while adapting it for contemporary tast...

Le19M: Chanel’s commitment to craftsmanship

FashionParis, FranceDecember 17, 20214 MIN 35 SECLe19M: Chanel’s commitment to craftsmanshipDesigned by French architect Rudy Ricciotti, Chanel’s new creative centre in Paris is dedicated to preserving traditional skills and nurturing opportunities for a new generation. We visit the specialist ateliers to witness the savoir-faire unique to fashion in France.Editor Olivier AzpitarteNarrator Sophie GroveSubscribeEmailiTunesYouTube

Pitti Uomo: 97th edition

The year is young but the menswear industry has already wrapped up one of its key events: the autumn/winter edition of Pitti Uomo. The menswear tradeshow, which took place this week in a crisp yet sunny Florence, is now in its 31st year and continues to occupy a unique place in the fashion world: it is by far the biggest and most impressive tradeshow, for men’s or womenswear. Some 30,000 buyers and editors flocked to the hallowed halls of the For...

Apotheke, the Athenian natural cosmetics brand taking beauty back to basics

“This is all about bringing back a liberating simplicity to people’s lives,” says Eva Papadaki, as she moves through 10am Apotheke (Greek for “storage room”), her new concept shop in Athens’ vibrant neighbourhood of Gazi. Just beside the boutique – where Papadaki picks a collection of homeware, cosmetics and culinary ingredients – is a garage that repairs old cars. There’s a link to these unlikely neighbours: both are focused on preservation.The ...

Spring into action with brand new styles

jacket and trousers byGiorgio Armani, jumper byZanonefromSlowear, shoes byJohn Lobb, scarf byCanalisunglasses byLa Paz3Alf, Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m watch byOmega, bag by Rue deVerneuilJacket and trousers by Hermès, shirt by Massimo Alba, glasses by Oliver Peoples, pen by ST Dupont,Bag by Louis Vuitton, Tank Française watch and Trinity ring by Cartier, glasses case with lanyard by Valextraovershirt byAndWander,...

Athens’ creative renaissance: Makers, designers and shopkeepers to know

In Athens, the sun shines brightly, the music is extra loud and crowds overflow from cafés and restaurants. This commitment to savouring life’s simple pleasures – good food, good company, good weather – has defined Athenians’ outlook. And today, it seems that the world is taking note and looking to join in on the fun.This would explain why hotels such as the Grand Bretagne in the centre, the newly opened One&Only resort in the south and many ...

Five top hospitality uniforms from our editors’ travels

Some shudder at the mere mention of the word “uniform”. Done badly (read: off the peg and on a budget) a staff fit-out can mean plasticky jackets and clumpy black shoes. But it needn’t be that way. A deftly cut dinner jacket, airy shirt that breathes in the midday sun or dramatic dress can add theatre and flair to proceedings. It’s these considered, well-designed outfits that inspired us to ponder the attire that sets the best tone and helps...

You’ve got male: Brands to keep an eye out for in 2024

MaglianoItalyItaly is known for storied fashion houses but emerging designers such as Bologna-born Luca Magliano are bringing new energy to its menswear scene. After winning LVMH’s Karl Lagerfeld Prize last year, Magliano presented his new collection in Florence at Pitti Uomo.Offering a take on classic dressing updated with subtle draping, he also collaborated with some Pitti Uomo heavyweights. One was Kiton, creating a suit cut in a Neapolitan s...

Tour accessories label Cinabre’s Paris guest apartments

In Paris’s Cité Bergère, a small and thoroughly charming pocket of the 9th arrondissement, is French brand Cinabre’s treasure trove of handmade silk ties, lapel pins, slippers and dressing gowns, showcased among vintage cocktail shakers, vinyl records, antique furniture and framed drawings. In the entrance is a marquee with blue and white stripes, and bright-red piping, which gives way to a reception area, complete with a concierge’s desk. At the...

The Fashion Top 25

When Monocle stops by, the conversation turns to the intricacies of a suit, from the benefits of half-linings and single darts on jackets to top-stitched seams. “We both feel that in Florence they are making the sort of suits that we like to wear,” says Marsh. “And I like my suits to be properly worn, not left hanging in a cupboard.”Speciale’s knitwear offeringAny collar you likeThe tailoring studio in the back of the shop is where jackets and tr...

Where next for luxury retail?

The debateTowards the end of last year, luxury retail’s long-simmering problems reached boiling point. Global marketplace Farfetch was de-­listed from the New York Stock Exchange, only avoiding bankruptcy when South Korean e-commerce giant Coupang bought its assets. London-based Matchesfashion met a similar fate. Valued at $1bn (€924m) just a decade earlier, it was acquired for £52m (€61m) by the Fraser Group, a business with little background in...

A Bangkok food emporium’s recipe for success

Gourmet Market’s flagship in Bangkok is a giant food emporium found inside the city’s premier shopping mall, Siam Paragon. Every morning, staff form a line at the end of each aisle to greet the first customers of the day with a cheerfulsawadee. This sizeable welcoming party makes food shopping feel like a royal visit. A repeat performance after lunch involves dancing to music.“An exceptional customer experience is crucial to food retail because t...

A different view with Adrien Sauvage

Travel and restaurantsBeverly HillsJanuary 26, 20213 MINA different view with Adrien SauvageThe distinctive designs of House A Sauvage fuse elegant British tailoring with the laid-back lifestyle of Beverly Hills. We meet founder Adrien Sauvage who takes us on a tour around this dazzling city that fuels his imagination and allows him to dream. Monocle Films has partnered with Beverly Hills Conference & Visitors Bureau to reveal hidden gems thr...

The agenda opener: Updates from our correspondents and a conversation with Chris Black

How to live – UniformsSmart chanceTyler Brûlé on why dressing the part is about more than just self-expression.It was 2008. To mark the recent launch of Monocle, we had decided to host a dinner for our advertisers and bought crisp, white waiter jackets from Hakuï in Japan for the occasion. All was going to plan on the night until I overheard one of the serving staff tell her manager that she wasn’t happy with the jacket that she had been given.“W...

A bustling Japanese market that offers a luxury shopping experience

May 2024InventoryA monthly round-up of all you needThat food in Japan is outstanding is hardly news but what really separates the average meal in Tokyo from other big cities is often the quality of the ingredients. From grapes wrapped in muslin on the vine to freshly caught fish handled with the gentlest touch, Japanese producers are on another level. And what if the humble shopper wanted to get their hands on such produce? One new food market in...

A look inside Azabudai Hills – Tokyo’s ‘city within a city’

Grand in both scale and ambition, Azabudai Hills officially opened its doors for the first time in November 2023. A moment that was more than 30 years in the making, the opening marked a new phase for a mixed-use development that will eventually host approximately 20,000 employees and 3,500 residents across 8.1 hectares. The so-called “city within a city” in Tokyo’s bustling Toranomon business district will include education and healthcare facili...

On the scent: Five brands to look out for this June

Le Labo FragrancesJapanKyoto’s historic woodenmachiyatownhouses are not always treated with the respect they deserve. But this hasn’t been the case for a 150-year-old, family-owned former saké brewery by the Kamo river, which has been turned into a new home for New York-based fragrance brand Le Labo Fragrances.The atmospheric old building has been renovated with a light touch: door frames and walls have been left in a comfortably worn state and n...

Adopt your own look: The case for dressing in a personal uniform

For New York writer Fran Lebowitz, it’s an Anderson&Sheppard suit, made bespoke on Savile Row. For the designer Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, it’s a black leather biker jacket and a trademark razor-cut bob. At Milan Fashion Week, Miuccia Prada tends to take her catwalk bow in a pleated midi skirt topped off with some fine knitwear. In a world filled with novelty, a recognisable look, a trademark garment or signature silhouette, can work ...

    advertisement